What and Where to Eat in Cuenca, Ecuador

Ecuador may not be considered a top gastronomic hot spot, but we were pleasantly surprised to find the food to be not only affordable but also really good!

During our time living the heart of Cuenca, we enjoyed eating out for almuerzos, a set lunch of the day.

For as little as $2.50, you can get fresh juice, soup, entree, and sometimes a small dessert. We then made most of our own breakfasts and dinners with fresh produce from the markets.

This is an overview of our top recommendations for what and where to eat in Cuenca.

There are certainly more high-end options available out there, which you can find through Trip Advisor. A majority, though not all, of the restaurants we list here will be more budget-traveler-friendly.

Updated: March 2022. Originally published: April 2016.

Map of Our Favorite Places in Cuenca

We introduced the map above in our What to See and Do in Cuenca blog post. The fork and knife icons represent restaurants, coffee mug icons are for cafes, grocery cart icons represent supermarkets, the hamburger bun represents a bakery or hueca, and “M” building icons are the large produce markets.

Each map location includes our tips and notes as well as photos of the food, menu, and setting.

* Get access to our interactive Cuenca map here *

 

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Local Specialties: Food to Eat in Cuenca Ecuador

Curious about what to eat in Cuenca? Here are 20 things to try:

1. Almuerzos – This refers to a set lunch menu of the day. Often three courses for a very reasonable price. Some restaurants also have the same concept for breakfast, desayunos, or in the evening, called meriendas. 

2. Locro de papa – A traditional creamy soup with yellow potatoes and cheese and slices of avocado. Comfort food!

3. Tropical fruit – Mangos, papaya, pineapple, banana, plantains, avocado, guanabana, maracuya (passion fruit).

4. Regional fruit – Tomate de arbol (usually juiced), mora (like blackberry), naranjillo. 

5. Mote – Large, savory corn often served as a side or incorporated in dishes.

6. Chancho hornado – Roast pig, found in the large markets.

7. Tortilla de yuca, platanos maduros, or choclo  – Yuca pancakes, ripe plantain, or corn are common sides.

8. Morocho – Creamed corn drink with cinnamon

9. Horchata – Herbaceous pink juice made from flowers (unlike the creamy horchata in Mexico)

10. Humitas, tamales, tortillas, or quimbolitos – Different types of corn-based pancakes/muffins often with pork, chicken, or cheese traditionally sold on Calle de las Herrerías.

11. Pastries – Bakeries are plentiful in Cuenca (see suggestions below) and there are many varieties to try.

12. Canelazo – A sugarcane-based alcohol served hot with cinnamon and sometimes fruit juice.

13. Pan de yuca – Fried balls of yuca dough available in special yuca and juice shops.

14. Batidos – Fresh smoothies/blended juice.

15. Espumilla – Whipped egg whites with fruit juice, often sold on the streets like an ice cream cone that won’t melt.

16. Street sweets – (Not an official name.) Many treats are sold in small shops or by vendors with baskets on the street. Panela-based sweets are made from molasses/cane sugar. Guyaba (guava) puree formed into bricks, sometimes wrapped in wax paper, taste like fruit leather.

17. Sanduches de pernil – A simple “fast food” sandwich with bread bun, pork (similar to hornado), and served with a side of special house sauce.

18. Hot dogs – A long-time classic “fast food” often topped with grilled onion and served with special house sauce, ketchup, mayo, and/or mustard.

19. Cuy – Roast guinea pig is a delicacy throughout Ecuador. Sometimes available in local restaurants and markets.

20. Mote pillo or Tigrillo – Scrambled eggs with rehydrated corn (mote) or plantain (tigrillo), sometimes with cheese and meat, are popular and hearty breakfast items.

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Best Almuerzos in Cuenca: Cheap Eats

You can find meals as cheap as $2 or $2.50, which usually includes soup, juice, and entree plate.

For the next level of cheap eats, our Cuenca favorites listed below are more likely to provide some vegetables (other than potatoes). Plus other extras like a side of corn and small dessert, still for no more than $3 per person. 

El Tunel (Honorato Vasquez 6-80 and Luis Cordero)
Juice, soup, side snack, segundo, and small dessert – $2.75

Our Peace Corps friends introduced us to this restaurant and we’ve gone back often. It’s hard to find a better value and the food is always tasty. Usually there is a choice between two meat entrees, or sometimes fish.

The atmosphere is pretty nice, too, with three floors of seating. Clientele is a mix of locals and expat “regulars.” They can also pack up almuerzos for take-out orders.

Moliendo Cafe (Honorato Vasquez and Hermano Miguel)
Juice, soup, piece of fruit, segundo – $2.75

After trying most of the restaurants around our Spanish language school, this Colombian restaurant was clearly one of the most popular for both expats and locals.

Unlike other places, they give several choices for your entree, including a vegetarian option. The service is friendly and lunch is a great value – go before 1pm or you’ll probably have to wait for a table. We also went for dinner once, which was not quite as cheap but it was still good.

Rosamina / El Rincón del Ángel (Luis Cordero, between J. Jaramillo and H. Vasquez)
Juice, soup, side snack, entree, dessert – $3

A beautiful and airy covered courtyard space inside a boutique hotel. Previously one of the best value almuerzos when it was $2.75 – and worth the increase to $3. Comes with a choice between two entrees that aren’t always the standard you see elsewhere; served in a pleasant, open setting.

Cafeteria Torres Colon (C. Luis Cordero, between P. Cordova and Juan Jaramillo)
Juice, soup, side snack, entree, dessert – $2.65

This is one of the best value restaurants serving almuerzos in el centro and is popular with locals. A vegetarian option is available, so you have choice of soup and choice of entree. Menu of the day is written on a sandwich board at the door. They also have very filling desayunos.

Mujeres con Exito (Baltazara de Calderón 2-26)
Juice, soup, choice of entree, dessert – $2.50

Mujeres Con Exito is a social good enterprise that provides great value almuerzos, as well as weekly brunch, bread bakery, and other projects to support women escaping abuse. Its bright interior courtyard setting is very pleasant.

Arceliano’s (Juan Jaramillo 9-74 and Padre Aguirre)
Juice, soup, side snack, entree, dessert – $3

This is a nice sit-down restaurant labeled as a pizzeria. However, the almuerzos are typical Ecuadorian. They provide a choice between two soups and two entrees. 

Good Affinity (Los Capulies and Gran Colombia)
Juice, soup, 4 selections with rice – $3

Though it’s a good mile walk out of the center, it’s worth it for the value. Food here is all vegetarian with a Taiwanese twist. For the lunch plate, you get four different sides which are served in large portions on top of rice. There are several choices of juice. 

The tempura-battered fish, vegetables, or soy “meat” were always really good, and the steamed broccoli was really well done, too. There’s plenty of seating indoor or outdoor, and SuperMaxi supermarket is not too far away if you need to run some errands!

Formosa Taiwan Vegetarian Restaurant (Avenida Loja and C. Alfonso Borrero)
$2.50 vegetarian almuerzos plate with 5 selections, $3 including soup and juice

A hearty, very filling vegetarian almuerzo. Big enough to share! The fresh juice is available with or without sugar, and the vegetable soup was one of the best we’ve had in town. Taiwanese noodle dishes and dumplings also available.

This place is very similar to Good Affinity restaurant, mentioned above, even down to the blue trays. Here the setting is simpler, with indoor seating and a pair of outdoor tables.

Upstairs in the Mercado (10 de Agosto or 9 de Octubre)
Several options available – $1+

The two main produce markets in the heart of Cuenca both have a plethora of cook shops to choose from.

Jedd’s favorite is the $1 chicken or pork bowl which is filled with rice, tasty broth, and veggies – you can even add a hard boiled egg for 25 cents. Michelle’s go-to is the smoothie ladies who blend up fruits like mora berries, coconut milk, or mango for fifty cents per cup. (Best to ask what’s available that day rather than rely on their signs.)

The markets are also well known for hornado, a whole roasted pig, which you can order by the pound or have with mote or rice in a meal ($3-$5). Other snack vendors are cooking up a variety of tortillas like plantain, corn, and yuca pancakes and hot drinks like hot chocolate and morocho.

 

Morlacos Tacos

Another cheap lunch option in Cuenca are the delicious Mexican street tacos at Morlacos. The tiny shop serves up pork, beef, and chicken tacos topped with cheese, onion, avocado, and a bit of pineapple. At 2 for $1, you can feast on a lot of tacos.

Cuenca Vegetarian Almuerzos Restaurants

As mentioned above, Good Affinity and Formosa Taiwan both have very hearty vegetarian almuerzos (you could potentially even share with two people). Apart from location/setting, they are very similar in terms of food and value ($2.75/$3).

For a bit higher end, Yua in El Vergel area has quality vegetarian almuerzos (lots of vegetables, no big pile of rice) for $3.75 as well as a few other dishes (veggie burgers, zucchini lasagna) that start at $5.50.

Nandala, close to Parque de la Madre, offers creative vegan almuerzos for $3.95. The rest of their menu is mostly Asian-inspired.

Also Moliendo Cafe as well as Torres Colon (on Luis Cordero near Juan Jaramillo) often have a vegetarian option on their menu of the day.

El Nuevo Paraiso (multiple locations)
Juice, soup, mote, segundo – $2.40

This is a vegetarian “chain” that also serves fruit parfaits, smoothies, veggie burgers, pizza, etc. The set lunch included a soy-based patty and huge portions of vegetables over rice.

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Other Best Places to Eat in Cuenca

Although we primarily ate out for lunch because it was so cheap, there is so much more good food to experience in Cuenca!

You might be surprised at how many different types of food are available, including Indian, Chinese, Mexican, Greek, American, fast food chains, pizza, and more. TripAdvisor even has a “Top 10 List of Italian Restaurants in Cuenca.” 

While we didn’t get even remotely close to visiting all the best Cuenca restaurants, here are a few more recommended places that we did try.

Best Bakeries in Cuenca Ecuador: Panaderías/Pastelerías

Casa del Pan/El Pastel Con Sabor (Mariscal Sucre and Tarqui)

This quickly became our favorite bakery five years ago and even though we’re not as close by this time, we end up getting bread for breakfast and pastries for dessert here quite frequently. There’s a new sign, El Pastel Con Sabor, but it appears to be much the same as before.

Bread rolls are all 25 cents or less. Amazing cream-filled pastries with caramel on top and the tres leches are around $1 or so. A small selection of mil hojas, cakes, seasonal desserts, and other pasteles are usually available, too. Simple place with nice service. (Avoid the place across the street on the corner – they ripped us off and gave us stale bread!)

Tosta Bakery (Tarqui 696 and Gran Colombia)

This new bakery manages to produce artisan sourdough breads and croissants in a tiny space. Croissants are 50 cents and crusty loafs are $3, or 2 for $5.

In early 2022, the updated the space to include some seating, though the sit-down menu is limited to baked goods and espresso.

Best Breakfast and Brunch in Cuenca

KOLO Bakery & Restaurant (Luis Cordero 5-65 between J. Jaramillo and H. Vásquez)

This lovely space on the second story of the Hotel Vieja Mansión courtyard opened during the pandemic. Popular with expats, the menu is mostly Western and the staff speak Spanish and English. 

Quality, portions, and atmosphere are all excellent. Breakfasts are $4 – $6.50. We went back for the delicious $1.50 cinnamon rolls. Cinnamon rolls sell out on weekend afternoons so claim yours quick!

Dolce & Ricco (Las Herrerías 164)

The elegant style of this place first caught my eye, followed by the reasonable breakfast prices. The Western and Ecuadorian style breakfasts are both some of the best values we’ve seen. For $3 to $4, you can enjoy a generous set meal with choice of fresh squeezed juice.

Worth the long walk from the centro historico in my opinion.

Amar Cafe (Calle Federico Malo, across from Parque de la Madre)

This cute indoor/outdoor cafe across from Parque de la Madre is one of the few nice cafes we’ve found open on a Sunday morning in Cuenca.

Jedd loves the cubano sandwich with egg (ate them together for a breakfast sandwich!). There are a number of decent desayuno combo meals for $3-4, plus coffee, hot chocolate, etc.

Ice Cream in Cuenca: Heladería

Ice cream is very popular in Cuenca, whether it’s paletas (popsicles), scoops, sundaes, or other treats. Monte Bianco, Bogati, and Tutto Fredo are local chains that serve ice cream and other desserts around town. Independent ice cream shops are also plentiful.

A popular Cuencan heladería is Helados La Tienda. There are now several locations, including a new shop off the corner of the main square.

Helados La Tienda is most known for their cute paletas in various flavors, from mango, passionfruit, or tamarind to peanut, chocolate, or condensed milk. The signature flavor is Amor Brujo. They also serve cakes and bollos cuencanos. Everything is under $1.50.

“Fast Food” Huecas in Cuenca Ecuador

Huecas are like hole-in-the-wall shops, many with a long tradition in Cuenca. They’re often open all day but can be especially popular after 5pm for quick, cheap eats. 

Two of the most popular items are hot dogs and sanduches de pernil (or sanduches de pavo). These savory snacks are typically paired with a sweet coconut juice for a combo meal.

Yes, hot dogs are a local favorite and they can be found all over town. Similarly, many “soda fountains” and sandwich shops sell their own version of sandwich with either pork, similar to hornado, or turkey. Alongside the sandwich or hot dog is an aji (special sauce of the house), with varying levels of spiciness, as well as other condiments.

Some of the best huecas to try include

Despensa Tropical (Mariscal Lamar and Padre Aguirre)

Tasty chicken hot dogs with mild spices, a mayo-based sauce and with or without onions (we recommend with!) for $1. 60cents for coconut juice. Spicy aji, ketchup and mustard are available at the few tables – seats about 3 parties inside. Lots of fun memorabilia on the walls. Order and pay at the counter.

Sanduches de Pernil El Vecino (Simon Bolivar and Vargas Machaca)

$1.50 sandwich de pernil or $2 combo with sweet coconut drink. There are three small tables inside, regularly cleaned between guests. Their aji specialty sauce is creamy and not spicy, probably tomate de arbol base. We could easily eat at least 4 of the sandwiches! Order and pay at the counter.

Fuente de Soda y Sanduches El Mono (Juan Jaramillo and Miguel Angel Estrella)

A larger space with larger sandwiches. Pernil sandwiches are $2 and turkey (pavo) is $2.50. It comes on a larger, hoagie-like bun with a spicy aji sauce on the side. The turkey was so moist and flavorful, it really didn’t need sauce. This place is across the street from the popular Dona Piedad shop. Order at the counter, pay after eating.

Las Piezas del Maño (Av Juan Iñiguez, between Jose Escudero and Alfonso Morena Mora)

A popular hot dog shop since 1974 and a good walk from the centro. Despite the recently remodeled, trendy space, prices are still cheap at $1.50 for a large hot dog with coconut juice. It’s typical hot dog meat, served with cooked onions, creamy mayo, mustard, and ketchup. Spicy aji is available on the tables. Order and pay at the counter.

Cuenca Restaurant Recommendations for Dinner

El Confesionario (Benigno Malo off Parque Calderon)

The renovated courtyard next to the new cathedral has become a popular place for dining with a view of the iconic church domes. There are several restaurants but we really enjoyed El Confesionario, located on the second floor balcony. 

The menu includes breakfasts, sandwiches, and dinners with local and international influences. We shared a soup, salad, and “elevated” version of mote pillo, a regional specialty, served with chicken. The total was under $20. It’s more than we usually spend on meals in Cuenca, but seems worth it for the quality and fantastic setting.

Capitan (corner of Tomás Ordóñez and Presidente Cordova)

This is definitely one of Cuenca’s top quality restaurants. Capitan seafood restaurant was recommended to us by countless expats and for good reason! Every dish seems prepared to perfection, and the interior is newly renovated to expand their seating options.

Fish like salmon and sea bass, shrimp, seafood risotto, and even shrimp burgers are available. Most dishes are around $12. The restaurant provides top notch service, with English and Spanish spoken. Reservations are recommended.

Simple Cocina Creativa (Carlos Ventimilla and Pasaje Paucarbamba)

Tucked away in the El Vergel neighborhood, this trendy restaurant serves elevated “basics” that are full of flavor. There’s indoor and outdoor seating with urban decor.

The weekly dinner menu includes a number of creative burgers with homemade buns; a menu of ceviches are available on weekends with three different base sauces to choose from. Nice $3.50 almuerzos are also served on weekdays (but not the regular menu) at lunch time. 

Le Petit Jardin (San Miguel de Putushi/West of Cuenca)

One of Cuenca’s finest dining experiences is this French restaurant on the outskirts of town. We heard about it over and over as the best special occasion meal in Cuenca.

The restaurant is only open on weekends and certain holidays, and reservations are required. There’s a slightly different menu each week, posted by newsletter and on the website by Thursday.

For the high-end quality and atmosphere, the prices are quite reasonable. Appetizers start at $5, main courses are around $15.

Taxi is the best way to arrive, although the city bus can get you within a 15-20 minute walk. Directions will be sent when you reserve.

 (Vargas Machuca 4-31 and H. Vasquez)

Coco Cafe

Coco Cafe uses whole food ingredients to make both meat and vegetarian pizzas and burgers, all gluten free. The gluten-free pizza and burger buns are made with a plantain base that’s surprisingly good. The burger was probably our favorite, more so than the vegan Hawaiian pizza we tried. Coconut-milk oreo milkshake was so-so. Dinner for two of us was $12.

Vegan substitutions are also available. You can dine in and sign their wall, take out, or order delivery. They’ll send you the current menu by WhatsApp.

Tres Estrellas (Calle Larga and Jesus Arriaga)

When friends came to town looking for a sit-down dinner restaurant known for Ecuador’s delicacy of cuy (roasted guinea pig), we landed on this place. Cuy is certainly more expensive than the other entrees (over $20) and by nature, has very little meat. It was interesting to try, although I can’t say any of us were craving more.

Our other dishes were good, the atmosphere was nice, and there were many local families enjoying a late Carnaval dinner when we went.

 

The following restaurant recommendations come from Cuenca residents:

– El Mercado (for special occasions) – Calle Larga y Luis Cordero
– Radio Grill (excellent burgers) – Calle Larga y Padre Aquirre
– Casa Nostra – Luis Cordero between Munoz Vernaza and Heroes de Verdeloma
– Sunrise Cafe (Western, brunch) – Calle Larga 9-40 y Benigno Malo
– Le Moulin (European and Ecuadorian) – Av. 12 de Abril 285 on Rio Tomebamba

Thanks to Burt Johnson mindstormphoto.com and Regina Potenza for additional recommendations.

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Did we ever get sick from the food in Ecuador?

Short answer: nope!

As a matter of fact, we felt pretty good. Michelle’s joint pain and headaches actually decreased, and Jedd lost some weight.

As for water, our hosts in Quito had us drinking and brushing our teeth with bottled water. Locals in Cuenca said the water there is better. We still bought large bottles for our drinking water but we used the tap to brush our teeth and wash dishes while in Cuenca.

When eating out, we didn’t avoid raw vegetables or ice like we might in other places. Maybe we have tougher stomachs than most, but in general, you shouldn’t have to worry too much about getting sick from the food in Cuenca.

 

If you’ve been to Cuenca and have a favorite eatery that we missed in this blog post, please tell us about it in the comments below so other readers can see your recommendations!

 

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For further reading:

– 5 Great Day Trips from Cuenca, Ecuador
– What to See and Do in Cuenca, Ecuador (Plus Walking Tour Map)
– Where to Practice Spanish and Get Free Lessons in Cuenca, Ecuador
– Ultimate Guide to Getting Around in Cuenca
– 6 Beautiful Places to Visit in the Ecuadorian Andes